Monday, August 1, 2011

The Ugly Veggies

Sometimes, after a visit to Whole Foods, I look down in my cart in amazement and wonder what my mother would think. There sits endive, kohlrabi, fennel, bok choy, celery root, quinoa, Swiss chard, leeks, millet and kale. Frankly, Whole Foods is the only place I can buy these things without peculiar looks from the checkout people....some, at other markets (if you can even find these items anyplace) have to ask what they are. And then comes the inevitable question: what do you do with that?

So let's begin with celery root.




There are so many ways to serve it, but my two favorites are as a soup (recipe is HERE) in the winter and as a slaw (forgive me for this so American expression...I should have said: Céleri Rémoulade!) in the summer.


Everyone makes such a fuss about peeling it. I don't know why. Treat it like a pineapple. Here's a video. 





A few other things you need to know: Unlike traditional cabbage slaw, celeriac slaw holds up well for a day or two without getting soggy. It should be made at least 2 hours in advance so the flavors can blend and the grated root can soften. 

Basic Celery Root Remoulade
2004, Barefoot in Paris




Ingredients:
2 pounds celery root, peeled
1 3/4 teaspoons kosher salt
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup good mayonnaise
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard
2 teaspoons Champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar
Pinch freshly ground black pepper

Method:
Cut celery root into thin matchsticks with a mandoline, or grate them in a food processor fitted with the coarsest grating blade. Place the celery root in a large bowl, sprinkle with 1 1/2 teaspoons of the salt and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, and allow to stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl whisk together the mayonnaise, the 2 mustards, the remaining tablespoon of lemon juice, the vinegar, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt, and the pepper.
Add enough sauce to lightly moisten the salad. (You may have some sauce left over.) Serve cold or at room temperature.


And our second ugly vegetable?
Kohlrabi



Have you ever eaten a kohlrabi? These odd looking little vegetables come in green or purple, can be eaten raw or cooked, and when cooked, tastes a lot like rutabega (a Swedish turnip) which makes sense as Kohlrabi (kol-ROB-ee) is a member of the turnip family. I don't know why everyone thinks it tastes like broccoli stalks. I like kohlrabi roasted but you can make a lovely salad with raw kohlrabi.
At the farmers market, they'll often still be attached to their greens which you cook like collards, low and slow. 
Here's how to peel one:






ROASTED KOHLRABI



Ingredients:
1 1/2 pounds fresh kohlrabi, peeled and diced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
Salt
vinegar  (optional)

Method:

Set oven to 450. Toss the diced kohlrabi with olive oil, garlic and salt in a bowl. Spread evenly on a rimmed baking sheet and put into oven and roast for 30 - 35 minutes, stirring every five minutes after about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with a good vinegar when serving.